The crowds have departed and the children have gone back to school. September is that wonderful month when you really can get the best of both worlds. The season of plenty with ripening Autumn fruits and gluts to be harvested, but an Indian summer brings sunny days more precious than those of August. This is the perfect time to holiday in southern Europe. The restaurants may be slowing down but you won't go hungry. This seaside restaurant has tables laid and looks over a calm sea. I like to imagine being one of a few descreet diners in this place on a September evening years ago.